Nowhere does Christmas quite like Germany, and Cologne is the ultimate place to experience the magic of traditional German Christmas markets. As the festive season approaches, the city bursts into life with colourful market stalls, twinkling lights, and the sweet scent of cinnamon and glühwein in the air. It really is every bit as enchanting as it sounds.
2022 will mark our second Christmas living in Cologne and I think I’ve just about got my head around how to navigate the maze of markets that attract millions of visitors every year. So whether you’re a fellow local, or are planning a German winter getaway, here’s everything you need to know to make the most of Cologne’s Christmas markets in 2022.
When to visit the Christmas Markets in Cologne
Most of the Christmas markets in Cologne open around 17 to 21 November 2022 and close by 23 December 2022. Some attractions do remain open after the big day, like the ice rink at Heumarkt and the Harbour Market, both of which will run until 8 January 2023. And if you still haven’t had your fill of festive cheer, you can always head to neighbouring Düsseldorf where the Christmas markets will remain open until 30 December 2022.
Given the ever-changing Covid-19 situation, the Christmas markets may be cancelled or restricted at short notice. Be sure to check Cologne’s city website for the latest information and regulations before your visit. Please also note that it is mandatory to wear masks on public transport in Germany and that FFP2 masks (or comparable) are required for long distance journeys e.g. on ICE trains.
Getting around the Christmas markets
Cologne is very well connected by public transport and once you’ve arrived in the city centre, it’s possible to walk or hop on a bus or tram between the main markets. Heumarkt or Neumarkt are the best locations to head to via the tram. Or if you’re arriving by train, Cologne’s main station (Hauptbahnhof) will place you right in the heart of all the action. I’d recommend downloading the DB Navigator app to purchase your travel tickets and to check live journey information on-the-go.
If you’re travelling with kids, or just fancy something a bit different, you can also catch the Christmas Market Express train, which will transport you between some of the most popular markets around the city. Tickets can be purchased in advance from the Bimmelbahnen website.
For ease, here’s a map I’ve drawn up of all the locations mentioned in this article:
The Angels’ Market (Markt der Engel) at Neumarkt
Dates: 17 November – 23 December 2022
Opening times: Sunday to Thursday: 11 am to 9 pm; Friday and Saturday: 11 am to 10 pm.
Website: https://www.markt-der-engel.de/
With shimmering stars strung from the trees, and cosy wooden chalets waiting to welcome you in, the aptly named Angels’ Market definitely wins the prize for Cologne’s most elegant and charming market. Located in Neumarkt, the heart of Cologne’s modern shopping district, this enchanting winter wonderland is a favourite amongst locals and tourists alike. Once you’ve browsed the unique handicrafts and gifts, warm up with a mulled wine or hot chocolate in one of the many inviting bars (including a new cocktail bar for 2022) or enjoy a live performance from their unique programme of events.
Best for? Food, glorious food. Everything looks and smells mouth-wateringly good at Angels’ Market, so you’ll want to come with an empty stomach! As a vegetarian, I also found this market to be the best for its diverse culinary offerings. In particular, look out for traditional German market treats such as handbrot (a delicious bread roll, stuffed with cheese and mushrooms), reibekuchen (crispy potato pancakes served with apple sauce – need I say more?) and the famous cathedral-shaped waffle, only available from Cafe Riese’s pop-up stall!
Heinzel’s Wintermärchen (Heumarkt & Old Town)
Dates: Alter Markt: 21 November – 23 December 2022; Heumarkt: 21 November 2022 – 8 January 2023 (closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day).
Opening times: daily from 11 am to 10 pm; from December 26th: 11 am to 9 pm.
Website: https://www.heinzels-wintermaerchen.de/EN_index.html
Heinzel’s Wintermärchen (or ‘Winter Fairytale’) is everything you imagine a German Christmas market to be. Rows of softly-lit market stalls, a spectacular ice rink, and the charming backdrop of Cologne’s Old Town make this a truly unforgettable experience for all ages. The Heinzelmännchen (who, in case you were wondering, are mythical elf-like creatures unique to the city of Cologne) welcome you into the market via a grand entrance, where over 100 stalls await along nostalgic alleyways (Antique Alley, Toy Alley, Nibble Alley… seriously, I can’t handle how cute this market is).
Between Heumarkt and the Old Town, you’ll find the magnificent open-air ice rink, complete with cosy alpine bars and even curling lanes. To guarantee access, tickets can be purchased online in advance for ice skating and curling.
Best for? Atmosphere and pure Christmassy cheer – the elves, the skating, the Old Town… it’s everything a Christmas market should be!
Cologne Cathedral Christmas Market (Weihnachtsmarkt am Dom)
Dates: 17 November – 23 December 2022
Opening times: Sunday to Wednesday 11 am to 9 pm; Thursday and Friday 11 am to 10 pm; Saturday 10 am to 10 pm.
Website: http://www.koelnerweihnachtsmarkt.com/de/
You simply can’t visit Cologne and not make a stop at the world-famous Cathedral Christmas Market. The iconic ‘Dom’ provides a majestic backdrop to this bustling festive market, which is home to more than 150 stalls and a giant Christmas tree that would have even Kevin McAlister gawping. Fill up on cinnamon-covered donut balls and traditional flammkuchen whilst enjoying live music and performances on the main stage, from gospel choirs to lively swing bands.
Best for? The views. The iconic setting is what makes this market a must-see… although it’s also what makes this the busiest and most touristy of them all.
Harbour Christmas Market (at Schokoladenmuseum)
Dates: 18 November 2022 – 8 January 2023 (closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day)
Opening times: daily 11am to 10pm.
Just a short walk from the old town, you’ll discover a magical maritime market, outside the entrance of Cologne’s popular Chocolate Museum (Schokoladenmuseum). You’d be forgiven for thinking the festively-lit white pagoda tents were ship sails, as you make your way along the harbourside, but inside these quaint market stalls, you’ll find a selection of hand-made crafts and festive treats. There’s even a giant wooden ship, where you can order mulled wine and hot cider from the hull, whilst listening to traditional sea shanties.
While you’re here, don’t miss the charming Harbour Terrace (Haffenterrase) beer garden, located beneath the impressive 19th century Malakoff Tower – the perfect spot for a relaxed drink, overlooking the markets. And as the sun goes down, why not take a spin on the ferris wheel for unparalleled views of Cologne’s epic skyline? Combine your visit with a trip to the Schokoladenmuseum to ride the ferris wheel for free!
Best for? Something a bit different. The maritime theme and scenic riverfront location of this Christmas market give it a unique twist, compared to the more traditional offerings in the city centre.
Weihnachtsmarkt Nikolausdorf at Rudolfplatz
Dates: 17 November – 23 December 2022
Opening times: Sunday to Thursday 11 am to 9 pm; Friday 11 am to 10 pm; Saturday 10 am to 10 pm.
Website: https://www.facebook.com/Nikolausdorf/
Another stunning back-drop awaits at Rudolfplatz… This time, you’ll enter through one of the city’s giant medieval gateways before being hit with the aromas of freshly roasted almonds and mulled wine. Half-timbered houses and fairy lights give Weihnachtsmarkt Nikolausdorf a truly authentic German feel and make this cosy market especially mesmerising at night.
Best for? Children and families. Santa Claus makes a visit to the market every day at 4 pm and children can take part in a range of arts and crafts for free in the heated Santa Claus House.
Stadtgarten Christmas Market
Dates: 17 November – 23 December 2022
Opening times: Monday to Friday 4 pm to 9:30 pm; Saturday and Sunday 12 pm to 9:30 pm.
Website: https://www.weihnachtsmarkt-stadtgarten.de/
Located within a beer garden, just 10 minutes from Rudolfplatz, Stadtgarten Market is particularly popular with locals and has a much more chilled out vibe. Here you’ll find some great foodie stalls – the Käsespätzle (a hearty mac and cheese style dish, topped with fried onions) is a particular favourite and the ultimate German comfort food! Also, don’t miss Kiki Lento’s incredible freshly baked cinnamon rolls. Just follow the smell – you can’t miss them.
Best for? Unique, locally-sourced gifts. With different exhibitors every week, showcasing everything from hand-made jewellery and clothing to beautiful art and prints, this market is the perfect place to inspire your Christmas shopping.
Rooftop Xmas
Dates: 18 November – 23 December 2022
Opening times: Monday to Thursday 4 pm to 10 pm; Friday 4 pm to midnight; Saturday 3 pm to midnight; Sunday 3 pm to 10 pm.
Website: https://www.rooftop-cologne.de/
Hidden away on the rooftop of an unassuming city-centre car park is one of Cologne’s best kept secrets. Rooftop Xmas – the only rooftop Christmas market in Cologne – is the ideal place to relax and escape the crowds, whilst enjoying breathtaking views of the Cathedral and city below. Pick from a range of sweet and savoury treats from one of the market stalls, or warm up with a traditional mug of gluhwein whilst soaking up the views. There’s also a wine bar and a covered restaurant with three-course festive dining, if you want to make your rooftop experience even more special.
Best for? Escaping the tourist crowds. Grab a glass of bubbly from the wine bar and enjoy the views, jostle-free!
So there you have it – a round-up of Cologne’s magical Christmas markets. There are many more alternative markets around the city (and a bit further afield) which I’ll be heading to this year, so check back for more tips and updates coming very soon.
And if you’re spending more time in beautiful Cologne (which you absolutely should!), check out my article on 10 of the best free things to do in Cologne. Thanks for reading and Happy Holidays!
